Getting onto Your Board
Lesson 6 Chapter 2
The classic rookie error is to have your board at the 'ready' position, as the wave approaches dive onto the board only to fall off.
When you add your weight to a board that is stationary, it is difficult to generate the momentum you need to catch the wave. What is likely to happen, is the board will sink or nosedive and the wave will pass you by.
The most important point to remember here is to GENTLY ROLL onto your board.
Be kind to your board 🙂
Rolling onto your surfboard
√ As the wave approaches push up off the sand with your hands on the rails and GENTLY roll onto the board
√ Place your toes towards the tail, your body in the center and arch your back
√ Finding the sweet spot and away you go!
Pro tip: Continue to paddle once you are lying on the board
X It's important not to jump on as you as more likely to make the board unstable and subsequently fall off
X Too far up and the nose will sink
X Too far down and the nose will rise way above the water
X Too far on the left rail and you will topple over
X Too far on the right rail and you will topple over