We've got a lot to get through, so let's go!

WHAT IS A NOSEDIVE ON A SURFBOARD?

Nosediving on a surfboard is when the nose (the front) of your surfboard digs into the wave causing you to wipeout. 

Nosediving, or pearling as it’s also known, is a common issue for beginner surfers which can lead to some very bad habits (the downward spiral of doom) as compensation techniques as a result.

WHY DO I NOSEDIVE ALL THE TIME?

Nosediving happens for a variety of reasons.

Let's go into each in a little more detail on why below:

1. TOO FAR FORWARD

Probably the most common of the lot is where a surfer is positioned too far forward on their board when paddling for a wave. 

All this excess weight at the front of the board causes the nose of the board to dig into the waves face as it picks you up. 

The tendency when this occurs is to compensate by leaning your weight much further back on the board, however, as you’ll see later in this post, this isn’t always the answer…

2. TOO LATE

The earlier you can enter into a wave the more gradual the incline, likewise the later you enter a wave the steeper the incline will be.

Steeper waves increase the risk of nosediving considerably.

3. SUCKY WAVES

Certain waves go from ground swell to pitching wave virtually instantly, and it's these waves that are the culprit for a LOT of nosedives.

If you're an advanced surfer, sucky waves needn't cause you too much of an issue, but for a beginner they can be a nightmare.

THE DOWNWARD SPIRAL OF DOOM

Ok, so before you ask, the way to avoid nose diving is NOT to move way further back on your surfboard, and here’s why.

Welcome to the downward spiral of doom…

So, you move further back on your board and you think that’s it, problem solved.

…think again.

When you move too far back on your surfboard here’s what happens:

Reduced Paddle Speed: When you move too far back on your surfboard you create lots of drag, which in turn slows you down when you paddle.

Struggle To Catch Waves: This reduced paddle speed makes it difficult to catch waves.

Move Closer To Shore: Now that catching waves is much harder you move closer to shore.

Waves Get Steep: The further towards the shore you move, the steeper the waves become.

Nosediving Increases: Catching steeper waves is way harder, and increases your chances of nose diving.

...the cycle continues. 

The answer to not nosediving counterintuitively lies elsewhere…

HOW TO STOP NOSE DIVING - 7 COUNTERINTUITIVE TECHNIQUES

1. FIND THE SWEET SPOT

Ok, we mentioned earlier how simply moving way back on your board isn’t the answer, instead we need to find the sweet spot, the spot where you’re not too far forward or too far back. 

That perfect spot where your board is able to plane over the surface of the water with minimal resistance. 

2. ARCH BACK, CHIN DOWN

If you arch your back when you’re paddling (which you should) you’ll notice that the sweet spot as mentioned above shifts a little further up the board. 

This is a good thing.

Let me explain.

With your back arched, and the ability to lie a little further up the board you have the benefit of a couple of things. 

You carry a lot of weight in your shoulders and head which can be pushed forward when a wave picks you up, this helps you to catch wave earlier. 

Catching waves earlier you avoid those nasty late drops, helping you to stop nosediving as a result.

Arch back, chin down - and go, go, go!

3. TAIL HIGH TAKE OFF

With chin down, naturally the tail of your board will rise with the wave as it picks you up, and this is a very good thing.

As the tail rises with the wave, gravity is on your side which helps to connect you and your board to the wave and help you to catch it way earlier - making everything easier as a result.

4. PADDLE BETTER, FASTER

Everyone can paddle to a degree, granted.

However there’s a big difference to being a good paddler and everything else.

Practice makes perfect, and although paddling has nothing to do with surfing itself, if you perfect the art it’ll work wonders for the rest of your surfing across the board.

5. POP UP AT TOP OF THE WAVE

We see it all the time in our surf school, students catch a wave, look down it and freak out, then ride down it on their bellies thinking it's the safest thing to do.

It’s not.

Quite the opposite in fact.

And as you’d expect, going down the wave’s face on your belly is a great way to nosedive that’s for sure.

So, from here on in commit to popping up at the top of the wave and riding down it on your feet.

It’s much easier (I promise), much safer, and you’re way, way more in control.

6. CUT OFF THE ANGLE

The steepest way down a wave is to go straight, right?

So, naturally, the way to reduce the steepness is to cut off the angle and go across it instead.

Just like a skier goes down a mountain from side to side to cut off the angle, surfers can do this too by angling their surfboards when taking off.

It's called an angled takeoff and it's something worth knowing for sure.

7. COMMIT

A lot of nosedives happen because people fail to commit.

They see the steep wave, freeze, and do the exact opposite of what’s needed. 

Sure, looking down a wave can be scary at times, but you’ve got to find a way to fight that instinct and embrace it. 

Only when you fully embrace it and commit, will you give yourself the best chance of not nosediving.

WRAPPING IT UP

Avoiding nosediving entirely is almost impossible, I mean even the pro’s do it from time to time.

But, what you’ve learned here will severely reduce the likelihood of it happening to you.

Practice makes perfect right?

Yew!

Rowan

Let's go.

THERE’S MORE TO IT THAN YOU THINK

Granted, every surfer that hits the water from day one is able to turn their surfboard around in some shape or form.

But, there’s a big difference in being able to do it in 0.5 seconds vs 5 seconds as we’re about to find out…

ADVANTAGES OF BEING ABLE TO TURN AROUND FAST

Get this turning manoeuvre right, and it’ll open up your surfing in the following ways.

POSITIONING

Being able to turn your surfboard around quickly means you can make better positional changes in the lineup. 

Why is this important?

Well, it means you no longer have to be static in the ocean, happy with the cards you’ve been dealt, and instead you can make big positional adjustments to get yourself in the right spots more often. 

The result?

It means being in the right place, at the right time - more often. 

Which’ll send your make-rate through the roof.

ONSHORE WAVES

Surfing onshore waves is very different to surfing offshore waves.

The waves are less uniform and much closer together, and as such, make them much more difficult to catch.  

Surfing waves like this requires much quicker reflexes giving you much less time to prepare for each wave you catch.  

The ability to swivel fast really helps in these scenarios.

COMPETING FOR WAVES: Lots of waves that people paddle for they fail to catch, and if you're not able to swivel quickly and react in these situations you'll miss waves that could've been yours.

COMPETING FOR WAVES

Lots of waves that people paddle for they fail to catch, and if you're not able to swivel quickly and react in these situations you'll miss waves that could've been yours.

More waves = More opportunity to improve

Who would’ve thought so much good could come from a simple swivel of the board hey?

HOW DO I TURN MY SURFBOARD AROUND?

Alright, now there are three ways you can turn your surfboard around in the water.

Two of them are slow as hell and should be avoided like the plague, and the other one is the one we recommend... 

Let’s take a look at all three below;

TURN 1. THE TITANIC TURN

The Titanic turn is when a surfer is lying on their surfboard in the prone position, using just their arms with tiny little paddles to slowly (very slowly) turn their surfboard around.

This is by far the slowest way to turn around, and should be avoided.

Turning Time: 5 Seconds +

THE HELICOPTER

The Helicopter technique is where a surfer will be sitting on their surfboard using their legs and arms rotating in a circular motion to turn their surfboards around. 

This is the most common board turning technique you’ll see, and it serves a purpose to a degree, but it’s still much too slow for us. 

Turning time: 2-3 Seconds

THE SWIVEL

The Swivel is by far the fastest way to turn a surfboard around.

Done well a surfer will be able to make a complete 180 turn in under 0.5 seconds.

It's the technique used by the pro's and it's the technique we recommend to our students too.

The swivel - when done correctly - is more of a controlled fall than a steady pivot.

Done right, it's one fluid motion from sitting on your board looking out to sea, to full 180 swivel into paddle in one motion.

It'll take a lot of practice to get it right, but it's well worth the investment that's for sure.

Here's how it's done.

WRAPPING IT UP

Being able to turn your surfboard around in under 0.5secs has a BIG impact out in the water.

You’ll catch more waves, be able to manoeuvre into better positions, and increase your success rate as a result.

This little skill really packs a punch, and getting it dialled will elevate your surfing to a whole new level. 

You got this.

Yew!

Rowan

And a whole lot more.

But first...

DO YOU NEED TO WAX A NEW SURFBOARD?

Yes, absolutely.

Wax is what gives the deck of a surfboard grip, and without it, it’s incredibly slippery.

Granted, it can be painful to wax a new surfboard because they look so damn pretty, but it’s unavoidable I’m afraid.

HOW TO WAX A SURFBOARD FOR THE FIRST TIME

Alright, there are some pretty wacky - insanely complicated - ways to wax a surfboard that people have conjured up over the years, many of which are overkill, so we won’t be covering those here.

Instead we’ll cover the two main approaches: 

SINGLE-COAT WAX JOB

A single coat wax job uses just a single block of wax appropriate for your water temperature.

This is usually more than enough traction for most people, in fact most of the pro’s just use a single coat.

And if it's good enough for them, it's likely good enough for you.

DOUBLE-COAT WAX JOB

A double-coat wax job uses two blocks of wax - one harder, one softer.

The harder wax is used as the base-coat to create small hard bumps for traction that won’t smudge, or slip underfoot as the temperature increases.

From there, a softer wax is applied on top for extra traction.

We'll cover how these coats are applied in just a moment.

HOW TO WAX A SURFBOARD STEP BY STEP

Seven simple steps to waxing a surfboard for maximum traction:

STEP 1. PREPPING THE DECK

The first step is to make sure the deck of the board is clean and free from dust, dirt, and old wax.

Old wax can be removed with a wax comb, followed by either a wax removal tool, Methylated spirits, Turpentine (or similar).

Once your board is clean and dry, move onto the next step.

STEP 2. WAX SELECTION

The type of wax you use will vary depending upon the temperature of water you're surfing in. 

If you're surfing in warm water you'll use harder wax, and in cold water you'll need a softer wax.

All the different wax brands will be colour-coded to make this selection process easy, and failing that just ask the clerk at your local surf shop and they'll be able to advise.

STEP 3. DIAGONAL LINES

Using the edge of the block of wax, lightly begin to apply the wax on to the deck of the board in diagonal lines - making sure the lines are close together.

Repeat the process with diagonal lines running the opposite way.

STEP 4. HORIZONTAL LINES

Continue the same wax application process, however this time apply the wax in horizontal lines.

And remember, don't apply too much pressure at this point.

STEP 5. VERTICAL LINES

After the horizontal lines are complete, switch now to vertical lines up and down the board.

STEP 6. REPEAT UNTIL SMALL BUMPS ARE FORMED

The goal of steps 1-5 is to create small traction bumps in the wax, these bumps help to make the wax more grippy.

So, continue steps 3-5 until you have bumps approx 1mm high.

Once you're there, move on to the next step.

STEP 7. CIRCULAR MOTION

Now that the bumps are fully formed, switch to a circular motion.

This is where you can be a bit more aggressive, and apply more pressure during the application process.

The goal here is to build on the bumps already created - making them taller and more pronounced.

Keep applying wax until it's around 3-5mm thick

And that's it, you're done and you're ready to hit the water.

*HOW TO APPLY A BASE COAT OF WAX

To apply a base coat of wax to your surfboard you can simply follow the steps 1-6 above - using a harder wax for the process.

Once complete, proceed to step 7 and apply a top coat of softer wax in a circular motion from there.

CAN YOU PUT TOO MUCH WAX ON A BOARD?

No, not really. 

Sure, some people apply a little more than others but you’re still only talking about a ¼ of a block of wax or so.

So don’t stress that you’re putting too much wax on your board.

A more common issue is surfers not putting enough wax on their boards, so better to load it on just in case.

SHOULD YOU APPLY WAX TO YOUR DECK GRIP?

Deck grips provide enough traction for the everyday surfer just fine, however, lots of the pro's choose to add wax to their deck grips for additional traction too.

So I'll leave this one up to you, as an optional extra.

*Interesting fact: Some pro's even wax the tops and the bottoms of their feet for additional traction.

HOW FAR UP THE BOARD SHOULD YOU WAX?

Up until about 10 years ago surfers would only ever wax the board up to where their chests lie, however things have changed a little since then.

With elite surfers doing air-rotations, and spins, they increasingly rely on the nose of their board as a functional foot placement area for balance.

For that reason, elite surfers will wax their boards right to the very nose.

However for the everyday surfer waxing to the chest point is more than enough.

DO YOU WAX THE BOTTOM OF A SURFBOARD?

No.

The bottom of the surfboard should be kept wax free as this area has no need for traction, instead its surface is designed to be smooth to allow water to flow over it freely for speed.

In short, keep all wax on the deck of your board.

HOW TO AVOID BEING A KOOK WITH YOUR WAX JOB

Now I’ve seen some pretty interesting wax jobs in my time, and it’s often a tell-tale sign of kookiness…

So here’s what to avoid:

Follow along to the above and you'll avoid the kook trap just fine.

WRAPPING IT UP

There's no better feeling that waxing up a new surfboard for the very first time in anticipation for your first surf.

And now, you should have all the knowledge you need to get the best grip possible from here onwards.

Any board waxing tips I missed?

If so, chuck'em in the comments below.

Yew!
Rowan

SWELL HEIGHT

Swell height refers to the average wave size within a swell. We're talking here about a swell when it is still a long way from shore. 

HOW IS SWELL HEIGHT MEASURED?

Swell height is measured by buoys floating on the ocean’s surface. 

A buoy records the distance it moves up and down on the ocean’s surface as waves move under it, this gives us an accurate swell height reading. 

There are thousands of these buoys dotted around the world and are most notable when located close to popular surf destinations. Advanced surfers use these to get live readings of waves as the largest swells develop. 

WAVE HEIGHT

Wave height is the size of the breaking wave and refers to the actual wave size that surfers ride. 

Wave heights are significantly lower than swell heights as this is the measure of a wave as it starts curling over to break. Meaning it is significantly smaller than the swell out to sea.  

WHAT IS A GOOD WAVE HEIGHT FOR SURFING?

There is no definite answer to this question, as a good wave height for surfing is going to depend on your ability and the type of waves you enjoy riding. 

However a  rough size guide would be; 

SWELL DIRECTION

Swell direction is where a swell is coming from and is measured using traditional compass points (in the form of degrees).  

Direction massively affects wave size because it determines if waves hit a beach directly or have to wrap into a bay or around a headland. 

When a swell hits directly, the waves will be larger, whereas a swell that comes from an angle, and has to wrap around a large headland, will dramatically reduce the wave size. 

SWELL PERIOD

The period of a swell is a crucial factor in wave forecasting. Period means the gaps between the waves. 

This is calculated by measuring the mean (average) time between waves within a swell and is recorded in seconds. 

The longer the gap, the more powerful the waves are. Long period swells are created by huge storms in the middle of the ocean and travel crazy long distances to reach the shore. This type of swell may have a period of 12 seconds and above. 

These long period swells are the most sought after by surfers. 

On the other hand, a short period swell, is a storm created close to shore, often combined with short choppy waves and strong onshore wind. You’ll see swell periods here with numbers below 10.

This is exactly what you don’t want, especially on your day off...

HOW DOES THE SWELL PERIOD EFFECT WAVE HEIGHT?

The longer the swell period, the larger the waves will be! 

For example a 2ft swell moving at a 10 second interval, will produce significantly smaller wave heights than a swell of 3ft at a 15 second interval.

This 3ft @ 15 second swell is more likely to be producing waves in the 3-5ft range when they hit the shore.

WIND DIRECTION

One of the most important factors when it comes to good surfing conditions is wind. 

Wind is the bane of most surfers existence and as soon as you start to become a surfer who knows their forecasts. You’ll never think of wind in the same way again. 

Wind in surfing can be split into three different categories. 

Onshore, offshore or cross-shore. 

ONSHORE

Onshore wind refers to wind blowing from the ocean towards the land. 

The worst type of wind for surfing, causing waves to crumble as they break, producing choppy, unpleasant surfing conditions.

OFFSHORE

Offshore or glassy wind conditions are prime for surfing! When you feel the wind blowing from land towards the ocean, you’re probably in for a good day of surfing (providing there’s swell to match it). 

Having  no wind at all or wind blowing lightly against the waves, grooms them to create smooth clean surfaces to ride across.  

CROSS-SHORE

Cross-shore or side-shore conditions are when the wind blows directly across the beach, from either side. 

It’s a mixture of good wind and bad, and depending on how strong the wind is, can still make for reality fun surf conditions.  

WIND STRENGTH

In addition to direction, the strength of the wind is also really important! 

For example, you can have an onshore wind, but if it’s super light, it’s not going to affect the waves that much. 

Whereas if you have a 40mph onshore, it’s a completely different story.  

HOW TO READ A SURF REPORT USING MAGIC SEAWEED

Magic seaweed is one of the most popular surf forecasting sites on the web. 

It’s also my personal favourite and a website that takes up way too much of my time. Seriously, It’s ridiculous! 

MSW is a surf forecasting site that uses buoy data to predict surf conditions for spots all over the world. 

It can give you an accurate surf forecast for the next 7 days, although accuracy decreases the further out you’re looking. 

Simply type in your local beach and you’ll be provided with a tonne of forecasting and spot information. 

At first glance the forecast page can look like a terrifying jumble of arrows and numbers. But once you know how to read it, your surfing life will never be the same. 

Here’s a breakdown of how it all works... 

WAVE HEIGHT

The first column is wave height. This is how big MSW predicts the waves to be at a particular spot. 

As surfers we use feet to measure wave height and this is displayed in the first column of the forecasting area. 

I wouldn’t pay to much attention the the predicted wave height on MSW as it is often inaccurate. 

STAR RATING

Next to your wave height, you have the star rating.

The star rating will tempt you into believing the waves are going to be amazing. And more often than not, the star ratings on MSW are wrong. 

In fact, I'd disregard the star rating section altogether.

We've got way more important forecasting details to look at than fancy blue stars...

SWELL HEIGHT (PRIMARY SWELL)

Now we're into the important columns.

Swell height is more important than the wave height on MSW, as it gives you a real reading of the swell heights. (not a wave height prediction). 

(Wave heights can often be inaccurate on MSW as their algorithms don’t take into account other factors that affect waves such as, sea floor, shape of beach and other geographical features).  

I would use swell height as a good wave size indicator and after a few surfs, you’ll get an idea of the exact breaking wave heights produced by each swell.

SWELL PERIOD

As we move across the page, you’ll see the swell period column. 

Always take into account a swell period and as we discussed earlier, it has a massive effect on wave heights. 

Swell period will be displayed in seconds, with 10-11 seconds being the average for most beaches. Anything below this will produce weak, gutless waves, whereas anything 12 seconds or above will produce larger more powerful ones. 

SWELL DIRECTION

In the next section, you’ll see a little arrow indicating swell direction. 

Unfortunately, swell direction can be overlooked, especially when you're new to reading the surf forecast. 

To produce the biggest waves, you want this arrow to be facing directly towards the way your local beach faces out at. 

Swell hitting directly means waves come in uninterrupted and don't lose any of their power.

If this arrow is facing at an angle (more parallel to the direction of your beach) the waves will be a great deal smaller and weaker. 

SECONDARY AN TERTIARY SWELL 

Next up, there are the other swells in the water. These are different swells that buoys pick up out in the ocean and most of the time they will be unimportant as the primary swell overrides them. 

It’s always worth keeping an eye on them however, as sometimes a secondary swell can actually be facing your beach more directly than the primary swell and MSW doesn’t pick it up.

If you're onto this, you can sometimes get good waves with no one around! 

WIND STRENGTH & DIRECTION

The last important columns we need to look at are the wind strengths and directions . 

On MSW, wind direction is indicated by an arrow (direction of where the wind is coming from). 

The strength is then clearly indicated numerically and also colour coded (green for light, offshore wind and and red for strong, onshore wind) so it makes for super easy reading.

I usually find MSW’s wind predictions to be very accurate!  

EXTRA CONSIDERATIONS WHEN READING THE SURF REPORT

In addition to what we've looked at above, there are a few other things we should consider before planning a surf in advance...

TIDES

Tides are major in surfing and can be the difference between having waves or not. Do your research and make sure you know which tide your local spot works best on. 

This is another factor you’ll find yourself working around as all spots work better on different tides. 

GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES

Something to occasionally consider, depending on the beach you’re surfing, are geographical features. These are things that could potentially block swell from coming in or protect you from larger swell. 

Features such as rocks, hedlands, patches of reef or sandbars can all change how waves break and their size. 

HOW ACCURATE IS THE SURF FORECAST?

By using all of these forecasting elements, we can get a pretty good idea of what the surf is going to be like over the next few days. 

However, it;’s important to take everything you see on the forecast with a pinch of salt and remember, they are still only predictions. 

Although MSW is pretty accurate most of the time, I would never 100% rely on it. Use it to get a good idea of what the surf will be like, but always go check it for yourself anyway!

WRAPPING IT UP

Learning how to read a surf forecast is a crucial skill for any surfer. 

A good way to think about surf prediction is to use it as a guide to get a rough idea of what the conditions will be like. This way you're never going in completely blind for a surf. 

It’s also fun to try and align your free time with when you think the waves will be good as you become better at reading the forecast. 

So jump on a computer, open up MSW and start looking at the charts for the next week at your local beach. Then try and plan some surfing time around this… 

Any questions, leave them in the comments section below

WHAT IS A BOTTOM TURN? 

The bottom turn is a manoeuvre performed at the trough (bottom) of the wave. Hence, it is called the bottom turn. 

It’s usually the first turn you perform after you have taken off on a wave.

WHY IS A SURFING BOTTOM TURN IMPORTANT?

All great surfing begins and ends with mastering your bottom turn. 

Why?

This trick is one of the most crucial and fundamental moves in surfing and is the key to every other manoeuvre you’ll perform. 

With the correct execution the bottom turn will improve all areas of your surfing.

From more speed through your turns to surfing the critical part of the wave. 

As Tom Curren states : “The bottom turns is where it all begins”.

Agreed.

BOTTOM TURN FOR BEGINNERS

A bottom turn for beginners is a little different to an intermediate level surfer.

Due to one key component...

Speed. 

When you are first learning this turn, you will begin by performing smaller bottom turns where you have only built up a minimal amount of speed.

As you begin to master the art of generating more speed you can accentuate your bottom turn. 

What this really means is, you’ll be able to perform more critical turns like snaps and airs ect. 

This will notably affect your ability to take off late and into steeper drops. 

In the beginning however, your bottom turn will be more shallow and allow you to execute your first cutbacks and softer white water rebounds.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A DEEP AND SHALLOW BOTTOM TURN?

The most common difference between a deep and shallow bottom turn is the where the surfer takes off. 

Why is this important? 

It’s all to do with drawing your line. 

A beginner surfer will favour a less steep take off (usually on the shoulder). This affects the angle in which the surfer enters the wave. 

The surfer will enter diagonally on the wave, therefore their bottom turn will be more shallow to be able to execute manoeuvres like cutbacks and roundhouses. 

More advanced surfers are able to take off on the peak of the breaking wave, this entry is more steep and vertical. 

In turn, this favours a deeper bottom turn with full commitment to be able to perform more critical manoeuvres such as vertical snaps or tail slide ect. 

Instead of dropping and surfing diagonally, this time the surfer is dropping in vertically. 

This is usually a defining factor between an intermediate and advanced surfer.

HOW TO BOTTOM TURN SURFING; FRONTSIDE 

PRO TIP: Look down the line and decide which bottom turn will be best for the oncoming section:

SURFING BOTTOM TURN MISTAKES

BACKSIDE BOTTOM TURN

A backhand bottom turn, the surfer’s back faces the wave as he turns at the bottom.

There are a few subtle differences between a frontside and backside bottom turn. So be sure to read through the entire step by step guide. 

PRO TIP: Look down the line and decide which bottom turn will be best for the oncoming section:

A GOOD BOTTOM TURN PAYS 

Can you make some serious improvements with your surfing by mastering the bottom turn?

You know it. 

It won’t happen overnight (for most of us, anyway).

But that’s okay!

Every time you go out there and practice - your muscle memory will improve. That means over time you’ll start to see some traction. 

And that’s really key here. 

Plan on trying a little harder each surf. Plan on allowing yourself to go one two steps back before your go forward. And, always plan on believing in yourself. 

Why not go out there after reading this, and give it a go?

Talk soon,

Loz

WHAT IS A CUTBACK IN SURFING?

In simple terms; a cutback is a surfing manoeuvre. 

A turn that takes the surfer back towards the breaking part of the wave curl. 

Think of it like this. 

The same as a top turn however the turn is continued bringing you around and back towards the curling wave.

HOW DOES MAKING A CUTBACK BENEFIT THE SURFER?

You would perform a cutback in order to regain the momentum necessary to continue on the wave. 

When you are surfing, you may generate so much speed that you find yourself placed well in front of the breaking wave. 

At this point, the water is flatter (wave has faded, out into deeper water, or not yet formed up) and has less energy resulting in you losing speed/energy.

To regain momentum, you should return to the steeper part of the wave near the breaking curl. 

If the wave continues to form up in front of you, this eliminates the need for a cutback as you have continual fall and face on the wave to generate speed and momentum.

WHEN TO DO A CUTBACK? 

A cutback is usually an intermediate surfers first manoeuvre. Although it’s not super technical, it still requires quite a bit of weight distribution and rail to rail surfing. 

This simple yet complex manoeuvre is insanely useful.

Here’s a few examples of when to do a cutback;

This list goes on...

One thing is for sure. 

You’re going to use the cutback quite a bit in your repertoire, when you’ve transitioned to surfing unbroken waves. 

It’s a manoeuvre that will come in handy in all kinds of waves and for a variant of different reasons. 

As you learnt to make different sections or utilise your speed better, the cutback will be an extremely handy manoeuvre to use.

WHY DO YOU NEED TO STAY NEAR THE POWER SOURCE OF THE WAVE?

Staying near the power source of the wave will help you do one of two things.

Why is this important?

To put it simply; without speed it’s nearly impossible to perform any kind of manoeuvre.

This includes even the basics of staying with the wave. 

Most surfers, surf too far away from the curl (which is usually on the shoulder) or get caught behind the foam ball. 

Ideally you want to be using the power source of the wave to generate your speed into turns and cutting back to maintain your speed if necessary. 

Think of it like an elastic band. 

You expand and then contract. This principle applies to surfing a wave. Expand into turns and contract to regroup. 

Rinse and repeat.

Alternatively if you don’t surf near the power source of the wave, your rides will be short live and extremely frustrating. 

WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A CUTBACK AND A ROUNDHOUSE CUTBACK?

The difference between a cutback and roundhouse cutback is the rebound of the white water.

To explain this further let’s take a look at the the official definition of roundhouse cutback:

“A manoeuvre that is cut back that continues right around through an arc of 180 to 200 degrees”. 

The roundhouse cutback is a more advanced manoeuvre than a cutback. It requires a change of direction, perfect timing and full engagement on your rail. 

The higher up the wave the surfer rebounds off the white water the more speed they will generate coming back down the wave. 

A cutback however, is more about the change of direction. It’s easier to perform and is most intermediate surfers, first taste of rail to rail surfing. 

Don't get me wrong.

Some cutbacks can be harder than others. 

But most are performed in an S shape and can be executed with as little or major commitment as needed. 

SURFING CUTBACK FRONTSIDE TUTORIAL 

FRONTSIDE CUTBACK MISTAKES 

SURFING CUTBACK BACKSIDE TUTORIAL 

There’s very little difference between a frontside and backside cutback. Most people find it easier to perform a backside cutback because of their rotating their body back onto their front side. 

With that said. I recommend you going through each of the steps and familiarising yourself to make sure you fully understand all of the sequence. 

BACKSIDE CUTBACK MISTAKES

CONCLUSION

Surf is fun. It’s also hard as hell. 

Between the hard work that’s required and the self doubt it produces, it can seem like an impossible task to see results.

But with the approach I’ve just outlined, you can create the perfect cutback that’ll impress any aspiring pro...

Imagine the validation and confidence you’ll feel knowing you have what it takes to move up to the next level.

You don’t just have to imagine it. You can make it real. All you have to do is take the next step.

Study the video. Follow the steps in this guide. And perform the best damn surfing cutback!

You can do this!

 Talk soon,

Loz

Let’s start with the brutal truth, shall we?

Learning to surf on a shortboard is virtually impossible at the best of times. Nevermind in the early stages of developing your surfing skills. 

Here’s why:

Any assistance you can get with your equipment take it.

You’ve probably heard the statement - “old habits die hard” and it’s true to an extent. 

A more accurate statement would be…

Bad habits must die!

If that’s hard to understand, think about it this way.

Watching the pop up in slow motion is an excellent way to fully break down each of the movements into the tiniest of details. 

Let’s face it.

Everything happens so quickly in surfing it’s impossible to know where your mistakes are coming from. 

But, when the pop up is slowed down, frame by frame you get a better understanding of what you need to be doing and at what stage. 

Once you learn the formula to perfecting your pop up, it’s then up to you, to ditch your bad habits and start implementing new ones. 

Even if this means one step forward two steps back. 

Because, in the long run your entire surfing performance will advance once you eliminate any bad habits you’ve picked up along the way. 

When you’re a beginner, knowing when to pop up gets confusing. 

Should I wait until I done the face? Or maybe once the wave is already breaking? 

These questions and more are common among surfers who are transitioning from big board to shortboard and from surfing the white water to surfing the green waves. 

Luckily I have the answer...

When to pop up on a wave?

The answer is… 

You must pop up at about 2/3rd of the wave’s height.

There are two reasons for this:

Any later and you’ll be travelling too far down the waves face to pop up.

This isn't good...

If you happen to get to your feet, it’s pretty likely your going to have a lip break right behind you and catapult you forward. 

On the other hand if you’re too early, you’ll be standing on the top part of the wave, with zero momentum to carry you further forward. 

Use this formula each time your popping up. 

You won’t go wrong. 

It’s hard, right?

Consistently popping up, making sure you’re in the right position. Shooting down the face of a green wave. Within a short second it’s all over. 

How are you supposed to remember all the little details and do it over and over again?

Surfing can be strangely stressful at times.

And I have news for you:

It’s completely normal. We hear it from students all the time and we’ve learned exactly how to deal with it. 

Surfing Pop Up Exercises. 

Sounds like a load of BS, hear me out…

Popping up requires one continuous explosive movement of balance and skill. 

All skills take practice and repetition. The more you practice the more muscle memory you will build.

When you perform surfing pop up exercise you will mimic the exact movement patterns, force and timing of a real pop up.

Through the repetition of these exercises they will eventually become hard-wired into you brain. 

Meaning, next time your out in the water, your body muscle memory remembers the movement and kicks into action. 

The results will be a more pop in your pop up and an increased success rate. 

The good news; surfing pop up exercises can be performed anywhere. 

Try it out for yourself. 

Okay, you’re struggling to pop on a shortboard?

Before you start shouting and cursing and giving up all together, consider these two options. 

BOARD VOLUME 

The extra board volume is going to make it easier to catch waves. The more volume the more buoyancy. This will help with slowing down your pop up so you can practice the correct technique. 

Once you’re pop up becomes second nature, speed it a little. 

Think about it like this.

Our Surf School in Mount Maunganui - and others all around the world -always have big foam boards for students learning to surf. 

There is a reason why they use these boards. 

The success rate in popping up with boards with more volume is so significantly higher than shortboards. 

By increasing your boards volume you will experience immediate benefits to your surfing. 

SURF FIT

The pop up is a dynamic and explosive movement. And, it’s a movement not usually practiced in your day to day life. 

Building strength, endurance and overall increased fitness levels will see an immediate impact on your pop up. 

Here's what you need to know.

Surfing a shortboards will require an additional levels of fitness, not often experienced in the gym or any other fitness discipline.

This is why you’ve probably heard the term surf fit.

The range of muscle surfing uses is difficult to replicate out of the water. 

It’s quite simple. 

The more surf fit you are, the easier it will be to pop up. 

I’m going to let you in on a little secret…

There is a technique which is used by us, because it simply works. 

We’ve tried and tested many different variations of the pop up but there’s one that comes up trumps time and time again. 

It’s known as the Chicken Wing Pop Up. 

Earlier we talked about when to pop up a shortboard. Now let’s go back and explain a little more detail about the chicken wing technique. 

Getting to your feet is ideally when your on the ⅔ of the wave height. As soon as you feel the wave take you, you need to get your hands right back near your pectorals. 

But, our instincts tell us otherwise...

You see, as your surfboard points down hill on the waves face you have that feeling strong feeling that your falling forwards. 

And our natural instinct is to put our hands out in front of us. 

For instance when you go behind someone and push them, their natural instincts is to throw their hands forward to protect themselves from hitting the ground.

If you put your hands in front of you on a surfboard - by your shoulders or by your ears , it’s IMPOSSIBLE to stand up. 

To counteract this, you need to put your hands right back in the chicken wing position. Near your pectorals. 

When you have your hands down here, it’s much easier to bring your feet though. 

And this process of standing up that stops you from nose diving. 

Here’s the bottom line. 

Laying good foundations early is a key to your future progression.

It’s these solid foundation that you will experience a consistent and reliable pop up, everytime.

Is it easy?

Hell no, usually a lot of work. 

But this is how you win. 

'nough said. Now it's your turn. 

Let me know in the comments below how these tips have helped with your pop up.

Talk soon,

Lauren

Bottom line...

...duck-diving is an invaluable skill to learn as a surfer, and as luck would have it, we've covered EVERYTHING you need to know on the top below

Are you ready?

Lets go!

Duck diving in surfing is a technique used by surfers to sink their boards underwater to duck under the breaking wave, allowing it to roll over them - without getting smashed.

This process enables a surfer to push their board underneath the power of the wave - avoiding the turbulence of the white water - continuing all the while to make ground out past the broken waves.

Much in the same way that a duck dives with its nose first underwater and pops up nose first too, surfers have imitated this exact movement to negotiate breaking waves.

It's a potent technique, one that simply can't be overlooked.

I hate to break it to you but, yup, duck-diving is kinda hard.

Granted, it’s not as difficult as a cutback or a floater, but it does present its own challenges.

The good news however, once you get this skill dialled, you'll conserve your energy and spend way more time doing what you love...actually surfing waves.

Duck-diving well relies on two main things: Timing & Speed. 

Below we break down both.

TIMING WHEN TO DUCK-DIVE

Having a good understanding of how waves break will give you a significant advantage when it comes to timing your duck dive. 

To time a duck-dive effectively you must allow enough time to push your board under the water before the wave breaks hits you.

Not too early as you'll lose your momentum, fail to penetrate the water properly, and likely wobble off you board before the wave even hits.

And not too late, or you'll get a face full of whitewater or worse still a lip landing on your head.

Funny to watch, granted, but not so funny if the one being watched is you

As duck-dives are best performed in one fluid motion the best time to start your duck-dive is roughly one to two meters before the wave hits (this varies depending on the size of the wave: bigger waves require more time to penetrate deeper underwater).

The best way to figure out the timing is - like everything - a bit of trial and error, but the above approximations should help you along for now.

DUCK-DIVING WITH SPEED

It's almost impossible to duck dive a powerful whitewater wave without generating enough forward momentum to battle against the oncoming turbulence.

This momentum I'm referring to is your paddle speed towards the approaching wave.

This momentum helps to keep you and your surfboard driving forward reducing the impact and turbulence of the oncoming wave - an object in motion, stays in motion, right?

Whereas without any paddle speed and momentum you and your surfboard are like a feather in the wind, with little to no control.

One of the most common questions about the duck dive is whether or not to use your knee or your foot. 

And the answer is...

...there is no answer

It all comes down to personal preference, however, some people (myself included) use both techniques in different circumstances.

In small waves I use my knee to duck-dive as it requires less energy, and I don't need to penetrate the water so deeply.

And in larger waves I'll use my foot to get as deep as possible.

Whether you use your knee or your foot to duck-dive makes no odds really, just give each a go and choose the most effective solution that works for you.

The more you practice duck diving the better you’re going to get, and let's face it, there's LOTS of time to get the practice in.

However, it can take years to really perfect the correct technique so try not to get too discouraged if you're not crushing it straight away.

The best way to practice how to duck-dive is the real thing - time in the water, getting smashed, learning, iterating, and perfecting.

But, if you've got access to a pool or a lake close by these can be good controlled environments to hone in your skills too.

As with everything though, the more you practice the better you'll become.

Duck diving a longboard is virtually impossible, unless of course you're built like Arnold Schwarzenegger. 

Because of all that extra length and volume it makes duck-diving a longboard virtually impossible.

Longboarders instead use a few different methods: The Push Through Technique, the Turtle Roll, and the Clubby Method (we cover all of these in our online programs here).

So, is it possible to duck-dive a longboard? 

Hmm, yeah I guess.

Will you be able to duck-dive a longboard?

Probably not, so stick to one of the other three methods above.

For sure you can duck-dive a longboard, but it depends on a couple of factors:

Length, and volume.

Surfboards with a lot of volume are almost impossible to push under water. 

And Foamboards are notoriously more buoyant to help beginner surfers catch waves more easily, and make the whole pop up process more forgiving.

So as a rule of thumb, any foamboard between five and seven feet can be duck-dived (just about), but anything above that will be almost impossible.

When it comes to duck diving, there’s two types of waves you need to navigate.

Broken waves (or white water), and unbroken waves (or green waves).

Although similar, you’ll need to take a slightly different approach to each.

HOW TO DUCK-DIVE WHITE WATER

Once a wave has broken, the wave turns into what’s called “white water”. 

The energy of a white water wave carries a forward momentum towards the beach, and this makes it a little different when approaching it to duck dive.

Firstly, you’ll want to make sure that you have enough forward momentum paddling towards the white water (so that you don’t get pushed back too far).

Secondly, you’re going to want to make sure that you’re penetrating the water as deep as possible to get under the energy of the broken wave.  

If your paddling through small soft white water I would recommend using your knee.

However, if you're paddling out through big, gnarly white water it’s recommended to duck dive using your foot instead of your knee to get as deep as possible.

Oh and remember, it's vital that you attack the whitewater in question perpendicular to the way it's travelling, if not, you'll get dragged off your board and rag-dolled every time.

HOW TO DUCK-DIVE A GREEN WAVE

An unbroken or green wave is - you guessed it - a wave that hasn’t broken yet.  

In general (unless it’s 20ft) these waves are much easier to duck dive than their broken counterparts.

As the energy of a green wave is moving in a circular motion, usually the knee technique is adequate to penetrate the wave enough to make it through the wave successfully.

One thing to bear in mind here though is not to do the duck-dive too late as what can happen is you'll end up going over the falls, and nobody wants that.

So be sure to go under the unbroken wave, not through and over...

STEP BY STEP GUIDE TO DUCK DVING CORRECTLY 

PRO TIP: Keeping your arms straight will help you get more of the board under the water

HOW TO DUCK DIVE COMMON MISTAKES 

If you want to surf green waves (which lets face it, everyone does), then you need to know how to duck dive.

It might take a while, but once you learn how to master the duck dive you will conserve a tonne of energy, all of which will keep you in the water for longer and help you catch way more waves in the process. 

An under appreciated skill that definitely goes under the radar, but quite simply someone that can duck dive well will be able to surf in more conditions and for longer than someone that can't.

With love,

Lauren

Pro tip: If you have rail in the water, it will not release. This is why it's so much easier to do if you get the fins out the top of the wave or on whitewash (your fins slide in the foam much easier).

Step 9: Shift most of your weight over your front foot, to allow the tail to slide.

Step 10: Your back foot needs to be right over the pad, but keep your back leg nice and bent and this will keep you balanced (a nice low center of gravity) and keep your weight forward.

Pro tip: The speed you came into the turn with and how much you rotated dictates how far round you will go, but you can control this with your back foot and head position.

Step 11: When you want to stop the slide, look back round along the direction the wave is breaking in, and at the same time transfer some of your weight back to your rear foot.

Step 12: Keep centered above your board. It's easy to come unstuck when the fins bite.

Step 13: As your fins gain traction again your board is going to spin back around to follow the direction your head and shoulders are in.

Step 14: As you come back around, your weight should be returned to your back foot ready to generate speed again for your next maneuver.

WHEN WOULD YOU PERFORM A TAIL SLIDE

• To show style, control, agility and balance in your surfing.
• To push your re-entry or cutback around further (forehand or backhand)

MISTAKES

a) ACTION: Your board can slide away too far from you.

RESULT: Your feet lose contact with the board and you lose all control of your board.

CORRECTION: Try to keep your body weight balanced over the board so that you glide and slide the board.

The tube ride is the ultimate ride. Often referred to as "getting barrelled" or "shacked' or "int he green room" and many other names.

A tube ride is when a surfer rides inside the breaking wave. Preferably, with the wave not touching you at all.

Sometimes you will hear the rush of air and water inside the tube - like a roaring wind tunnel.

Sometimes a tube will spit! This happens when all the air and water is forced out the end of a tube as it shuts down back inside.

Surfers describe this feeling of being in the tube as "exhilarating" a "total buzz", "stoked".

WHEN WOULD YOU PERFORM A TUBE RIDE:

Whenever the opportunity arises! Just pull in whenever possible!

Ideal waves for tube riding are above 4ft, hollow with good offshore winds.

HOW CAN YOU TELL IF A WAVE IS GOING TO TUBE:

Prior to entering the water, you can see if the waves are breaking in good form and tubing.

Look for signs of spitting as this means there are hollow waves. Spitting is when the air inside the tube is forced out the open end.

You will also see if other people are getting tubes.

Look for double-ups. Sometimes double up waves pitch over a bit better at one section of the break, causing them to tube.

You see the possibility of getting tubed if you ride the wave in the right way. You see the wave face in front of your building, and the lip thinning and starting to throw out and over.

Sometimes you will do your bottom turn around the peeling lip, pull up into the curl and straight into a tubing section.

Late take-offs often result in a tube or slight cover up as the wave is already standing up to a peak and throwing over as you take it.

SETTING YOURSELF UP FOR A TUBE:

When the waves are tubing, try to set yourself up so you are in a position where the wave tubes.

A fade can be used to set yourself up for a tube. You see the wave building further down the line in front. You then fade down into the pit of the curl, as the wave is building up and pitching over. Straighten up and let the wave throw over you. (shack time!)

When you take -off from the back door side of a building swell, you can sometimes do a fading cutback off the wave as it begins to stand up in front of you. Then as you do your bottom turn, you should be set for the barrel.

Other times you might need to do a quick stall or snap (depending on the wave) to set yourself up for the tube.

HOW TO FRONTSIDE TUBE RIDE

Step 1: When you begin to see the lip throwing over, set your line.

Step 2: Place your weight on your back foot to stall the board and get into a crouched position.

Step 3: Bend your back leg and place your chest over your front foot staying low and compressed.

Pro tip: The bigger the wave/ tube, the more you are able to stand up, as it throws over.

Step 4: Place your entire body over the center of your surfboard and your eye your exit.

Step 5: Drag your arm in the waves faces to slow down or move your feet further forward to speed up.

Step 6: As your trim along the face of the wave inside the tube, keep adjusting your line with the opening of the tube ahead.

Step 7: Grab the rail if you need for extra support.

Step 8: Eyes focused on the exit ahead and ride out on the open face... Wahoo!

MISTAKES

a) ACTION: The peeling lip hits you in the head as you pull in.

RESULT: The peeling lip takes you out (wipe out)

CORRECTION: Try again and watch out for the lip next time.

b) ACTION: The tube breaks too fast for you to keep up and shuts down on you.

RESULT: Wipe-out.

CORRECTION: Try to keep up your speed in the tube by pushing small turns. Some waves just break too fast so they will always shut down. Maybe a longer board will help you get more speed along the wave and in the tube.

c) ACTION: You are in a tube and it just closes down on you, due to poor waveform.

RESULT: Wipe-out.

CORRECTION: Try to break out through the front of the wave onto the clean water in front.

d) ACTION: You don't keep re-adjusting your line, dropping down too far on the wave face inside the tube.

RESULT: The lip, or wave face, hits you. Wipe-out.

CORRECTION: Try to stay high and in the open pocket of the wave where the tube gives you more space to fit into.